the other side of the palaces of paris

by Sharon Santoni

hotel meurice restaurant in Paris

If you have ever had to wait for someone in the salon or restaurant of a grand hotel, you will know what a great place it is for people watching.   Now and again I have been lucky enough to stay in one of Paris’s top hotels,  but most often I use them as the perfect venue to meet up with a friend or for a business appointment.

In Paris there are just a handful of hotels that are referred to as palaces.  Names like the Plaza Athenée or the Meurice, conjure up images of luxurious décor and impeccable service.

This level of hospitality is an expensive business, both for the client and for the hotel .  And at the moment there is a wave of major renovations taking place.  The Plaza re-opened in August after a huge renewal, and currently the Crillon and the Ritz are both closed for business while they make themselves even more beautiful

These renovations are vital if they want to maintain their reputations, but they also run the risk of seeing their most faithful clientèle transfer their business permanently.  Habits change and the other hotels are keen to snap up the displaced clientèle.

Besides being the watering hole for tourists and mere mortals like myself, the lobbies and restaurants of the Paris palaces often serve as meeting places for fashion designers, politicians, CEOs, foreign dignitaries, and even spies.   This tradition dates back centuries – the Franco-American treaty of alliance was after all signed at the Crillon in 1778!

hotel Meurice in Paris

Certain names famously prefer certain establishments – former president Nicolas Sarkozy, for example, often dined at the Bristol, the fashion industry loves the Meurice although   Coco Chanel famously lived at the Ritz for over 30 years.

In the midst of the perfectly oiled cogs of a daily palace routine, the maitre d’ has to be continually aware of who his guests are, and what – if any  –  role they play outside of the hotel.  Certain businessmen must never be seated together,  celebrities have to be protected and  politicians must not even be within sight of one another.  It is a highly skilled game that demands years of experience to master.

So next time you are sipping a glass of Ruinart,  enjoying the perfect macaron with your Lapsang, or politely pecking at a gourmet dish, take the time to observe the behaviour patterns of the rooms around you – I promise you some fun!

photos courtesy of the Meurice

12 comments

Nichole Sarson November 19, 2014 - 1:43 pm

love this page…interesting readings….its like a movie I am in…watching the world around me in Paris…A life wanting to live, where this all takes place…thank you for this day dream.

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Karena November 19, 2014 - 1:57 pm

First the venues are so luxurious in these fine hotels and second the people watching is wonderful while having a cocktail with a friend!

xoxo
Karena
The Arts by Karena

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Gabi November 19, 2014 - 2:40 pm

I just cannot believe that your English teacher ever dissed you Sharon, Hope she’s squirming now! I enjoy every word you write, every pictue you send. Every sentiment. So there…Miss Whinethroopple…or whoever you were..inya face xx

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Lorrie November 19, 2014 - 4:37 pm

So much goes on behind the scenes. Love this little glimpse of it. Your English teacher would be crimson-faced.

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janet November 19, 2014 - 5:34 pm

I once watched just the sort of scene you describe, while staying at the George V. There was some sort of French film star at one end of the restaurant, and an African political dignitary at the other end, both wanting to steal the scene! It was fascinating to watch how professional the staff were and how they kept everybody happy, and made each and every one of their guests (including me!) feel like they were the only ones there! Palace service indeed!
thank you for the reminder

x

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Jeanne McKay Hartmann November 19, 2014 - 5:36 pm

Sharon, I love this post. One of my favorite things to do in Paris is to steal some time alone to recharge and watch the world go by in a palace hotel. My go-to spot used to be the Hemingway Bar for a martini, but since it’s been closed for renovations, I shifted to the Bristol where I had a lovely late lunch and pot of tea on my last visit. Watching the “ballet” of a grand dame hotel is better than most movies!

One of these days I’d love to meet up with you for a glass of champagne in one of these regal palaces..

Hope you are having a lovely fall…

XOXO

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Peggy Braswell November 19, 2014 - 9:38 pm

it’s so true + have a friend that is a gm at a big hotel + it’s true. xxpeggybraswelldesign.com

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Bob November 20, 2014 - 12:17 am

One of my best afternoons in paris was spent when my ‘date’ kept me waiting for a whole two hours in the lobby of the Ritz. I didn’t see the time pass!

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The Enchanted Home November 20, 2014 - 11:29 am

SO agree. We have been fortunate to stay in three of the top hotels, my faves being either George V or Meurice..and the people watching might be the very best part! I could sit in that lobby all day long just taking it all in….and of course the birkin display is a feast for the eyes.

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Gina November 20, 2014 - 10:14 pm

opulence

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Eileen 0'hara November 21, 2014 - 6:17 am

Sharon. Just wish to thank you for the many hours of pleasure your blog gives to me. Eileen

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Amore Condo November 28, 2014 - 12:22 am

Paris is so classic and luxurious! one of these days I’ll be able to come here! Can’t help but imagine that we can have this kind of design in our kitchen at amore ec applying this design, at least I can feel the I am in Paris.

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